So This Is Paris

October 5, 2013

Right now, I'm in the 5th Arrondissement at a tiny hole-in-the-wall hotel on Rue Monge. (Not Morgue, as in Edgar Allen Poe and as I first thought when I booked the room through Agoda.com, but Monge. Not sure what it means.)

The Hotel de France Quartier Latin is very cute. It has the tiniest elevator we have ever seen. Each of us has one large bag on wheels and one carry-on. The elevator couldn’t fit both of us with our suitcases, so we had to make two trips.

We got here a little after 11, took a nap, and then went to a café, Dans Les Landes, across the street for breakfast—duck hearts, sardine rillettes (a kind of spreadable paste), some coffee, and a glass of Bordeaux. About a month ago, I had a Bordeaux at Artisanal, a restaurant on 32nd Street in the same building as my office, that was very smokey and wonderful. This was almost as good.

So far we visited the local mosque and a church dedicated to St. Medard (whom I had never heard of) dating to the 15th century. Stones in the floor are worn from so many years of people walking on them.

Wow, you don’t often see that at home. I am some place else.

It's a pretty great neighborhood—good-looking bistros and brasseries on nearly every corner.

I have read that there are several museums in the area, including one that includes the ruins of the old Roman baths. Tomorrow, though, we are going to head for landmarks. We are not too far from the Champs Elysees, Notre Dame, and the Louvre, which I hope to take in over the next few days before we go to Avignon.

We stopped in the Arenes de Lutece, a Roman amphitheater that is not a museum but a city park. Kids play ball there. Grown-ups play bocce. We saw an iron grate in the wall sticking up from the sand. Maybe that lighted the room where gladiators put their armor on. Who knows?

If gladiators get into knife fights there now, it’s probably only late at night. The place was kind of laid back when I saw it.

We got to Notre Dame a short time before night fall. We sheltered from rain on the way at a bistro where we had a fruit tart ( I have always been fond of tarts) and wine.

It’s late now and a lot of glasses of wine later, so I have to sign off.

As Santa Claus says, Happy Christmas to all and to all a good night.

October 5

An excellent time of year to be in Paris, Grasshopper.

I wasn't sure when you were going. This is very big news. You finally made it there.

I can tell by the tone of your note that you are getting into the spirit of the place. 

Duck hearts? I've had chicken hearts and beef heart, but I don't think I've had duck hearts before. I'm sure they were great. I've had rillettes of pork, rabbit, and duck, but not sardines. Sounds like you're off to a good culinary start. 

Many French people are convinced Bordeaux is the best wine in the world. I often prefer the whites, believe it or not.

A wine that's a darling of Parisian bistros is a red called Chinon, from the Loire. Generally not as rich or complex as Bordeaux, but a less tannic and fruity number that goes well with those "in-between" foods that are not obvious matches for white or red: pork, chicken, rabbit, and even salmon and oilier fish. I've grown quite fond of the stuff, served ever-so-slightly chilled.

Cru Beaujolais can also be good—look for the villages of St. Amour, Moulin-au-Vent, and Morgon, in particular. A little less serious than the Chinon—fruitier and less tannic—but fun with a slight chill. Another good "in-between" choice you'll see in Parisian bistros.

For whites, it might be a good chance to check out some interesting things from the Loire Valley. Chenin blancs: Vouvray (make sure it's sec) and Savennieres (bone dry, age worthy and often fabulous); sauvignon blancs: Sancerre (of course, but overpriced), Pouilly Fume (very similar and usually a better deal) and, if you can find one, Menetou Salon (the best value of the bunch, but often not as complex, unless it's from a good producer).

There's your wine lesson for today.

Larry

October 5

Harry,

I wondered what you were up to, and kind of thought you had another trip up your sleeve. I'm glad I was right.

You are in my mother's favorite city—she was a real Francophile. I've been there a number of times, including on my honeymoon. Certainly a fabulous city. Have a great time.

Eat as much pastry as you can. No one has better pastry than the French.

Peter

October 7

Delighted you’re in Paris!

Fouquet for elegant, fantastically delicious food and an interesting history.

Deux Magots for frivolity and a sense of the 1920s.

Hotel de Ville—history!!

Enjoy!

Beatrice