On the Town

December 25, 2013

Went downtown to take a little round.

We were carted there in the hotel’s open electric bus—sort of a cross between a Jeep and a surrey. It’s a good thing for me that there is a ride. I have no idea where I am. We came here in the dark. The streets twist and turn.

Besides, the road outside the hotel isn’t good for walking.

It’s so narrow, I can’t see how the cars get past each other. There are indeed many cars, but even more motorbikes, which cluster in the roads and fill the sidewalks, where there are sidewalks. Outside the hotel, there is a space reserved for pedestrians on the side where you can walk single file, but sometimes that disappears. People also park bikes and cars there.

We heard drums last night and followed the sound. We expected a temple ceremony, but instead it was a band playing at a restaurant up the road. Later we saw Roman candles shooting in that general direction. We figured it was a Christmas special.

Anyway, we walked maybe a couple of hundred yards through the dark. The walk felt absolutely perilous. Maybe it was. But we got back all right.

It’s hard to remember that last night was Christmas Eve here. Lots of businesses are decked with Christmas trappings. Many people in bars and restaurants are wearing Santa hats. They were doing that in Singapore, too. But Bali is prime tourist country. Tourism is probably the island’s chief industry. Christmas is one of the high seasons on the island.

We went to a market area of town, which may be called Seminyak, but I can’t be sure. The language barrier is kind of steep here. Many people speak better English than I speak Cantonese, for example, but not much better. I am starting to get the hang of it. Yes, no, today, tomorrow, 1 o’clock, 2 o’clock, more coffee, please, thank you. Add a wai, as you do in Thailand.

I don’t know if the wai (palms of the hands together with a nod) is appropriate, but I’m trying to retain some measure of egalitarianism. I have read that there is a caste system here, but hey, I ain’t Hindu.

We stopped at a bar with a largely Western menu, where we were able to find something that sounded unusual. Unusual if you’re from New Jersey. There was a sautéed chicken leg, steamed beef, a couple of kinds of bean curd, some crudités, and chili sauce on the side. The rice came wrapped in a banana leaf. I had a Bali beer called Bintang, which was a lager, but not completely flavorless. In fact, it may be the second-best Asian beer I’ve had this trip, after that potent Baron’s I bought in Singapore.

Joanna seems to be doing all right with the food, although every once in a while, she picks up something a little too hot for her comfort. Bread or white rice will calm that down. So will plain tea, or anything with milk. Forget water: it’s no help. Beer also has very little therapeutic effect on the chili burn, but the heat gives you an excuse (if you need one) to drink even more beer.

We went to the flea market where we bought a couple of sarongs. The man showed us how to fold it for a man’s kilt, and also how to make it into a lady’s halter dress.

Joanna was surprised that I refused to observe local custom and haggle with the guy. Maybe I should have, just to be polite, but there were two reasons working why I couldn’t do that.

Maybe five minutes before we stopped at this stall, we watched a Western lady with another vendor. The lady in the booth put something into a bag, offered it, and probably named a price that I didn’t hear. The Western lady said nothing, and just scowled like somebody with indigestion. When she didn’t get a discount, she muttered something and walked.

I don’t know. Maybe there was some other dynamic engaged before we got there. But if there was, then why hadn’t the Western lady already walked? In any case, the whole exchange was so unpleasant, that I couldn’t play that game.

Besides, this guy works in a flea market for a living. What am I going to save? Eight, ten bucks American? I spend that much on a single beer in some bars.

We walked along what appeared to be a main commercial street. We thought we might be walking in the general direction of the Kunja, but weren’t sure. Besides, I wouldn’t know how get back anyway.

The town is crammed with restaurants, trees, Australians, surf shops, Hindu shrines, and motorbikes. Very cool.

It has that Third World mishmash feel, where you walk past a bridal shop, an upscale bar, a ramshackle body shop, and a cool alley that leads back to a secluded hotel.

It reminded me of Chiang Mai, which is one of the most interesting and beautiful places I have ever visited. On the other hand, I have also seen that kind of body shop and overpriced bar combination in Los Angeles, which as far as I know, may be a part of the Third World with too much money.

We stopped at a tiki bar where I had a couple of San Miguels. Still lagers and light for my taste, but OK nonetheless. They put me over the top, however. I was ready for a rest.

We caught a cab, handed the driver the hotel card, and agreed to pay 100,000 rupiahs (maybe $8.25) for the ride. I took a nap at the hotel, and that restored me enough that I had the energy to turn in for the night.

We heard the doorbell ring around 9 or so. I got up, and it was three staff members who came in singing “Happy Birthday” to deliver a cake for Joanna. I don’t know if Greg told them or if Frad made a note when he took down the information from Joanna’s passport.

It was certainly a surprise. And who doesn’t like surprises?

It’s still the 24th back home. I know because my computer clock is on Eastern Standard Time.

Happy birthday, Joanna.

Merry Christmas to all, and to all a good night.

Dec. 24

Merry Christmas indeed, Grasshopper, and Happy Birthday, Joanna. I'm glad you're having fun!

The haggling story is interesting. I've never been to Indonesia, so I don't know the etiquette there, but here in Thailand, unless there is a price tag or price sign, you are expected to haggle. If you remember our experiences here in Thailand, the secret is to keep it friendly and light; lots of smiling. It's a game.

Perhaps the attitude is more serious there, or, perhaps the lady you saw got too serious with the vendor and caused bad feelings. While I generally agree that I'm happy enough to overpay slightly, especially given the difference in income levels, you don't want to seem like a complete sucker, either. I also enjoy the banter, if the vendor speaks enough English. I've found myself in some pretty funny situations at times. But then if you're only there for a day or two, does it really matter?

I'm off to Surat Thani this afternoon. Tomorrow morning I catch a flight to KL from there — it's a relatively new service.

Enjoy the rest of your time in Bali.

Larry

Dec. 25

Merry Christmas, Harry.

Enjoy the trip and give my best to Larry.

Just came back from a Christmas Eve visit to the Clairidge in Montclair to see the new Coen Bros. movie about Greenwich Village folk scene.

Ping me when you're back and let's have a beer or three.

Charlie